The Muscat family of grapes may very well be the oldest cultivated varieties known to man, yet every time we pour this wine for our guests we get reactions of delight and surprise. “Wow! I’ve never had a wine like that” is one of the most commonly overheard comments. Foris Vineyards has been cultivating a specific selection known as Early Muscat since 1976 and it has shown itself to be right at home in our alpine valley. Over the last several decades, we have made this ancient variety in a number of different styles, from dry to off-dry, all the way to late harvest and even a fortified dessert version, but it wasn’t until our current winemaker, Bryan Wilson, arrived in 2007 and showed us his unique take on Muscat did we have our “Eureka!” moment. Unabashedly inspired by the frothy Moscato’s of Italy’s Peidmont region, this wine strikes such a playful note that a smile is near impossible to repress. We have arrested the fermentation process at just about the halfway point, preserving part of the original sweetness of the grapes and capturing some of the carbonation produced during fermentation. The resulting wine has peachy-floral aromas that leap from the glass while the palate is light and lively thanks to the petulant touch of the tiny bubbles that balance out the juicy sweetness. It is hard to think of another wine that is so compelling on its own, yet paired with some fresh fruit and a ripe soft cheese; you have one of life’s greatest yet simplest pleasures before you. With considerably lower alcohol than Champagne, we find it to be a wonderful wine to serve with brunch as well as a delightful aperitif before a grand meal.